4/18/2024 0 Comments 36 volt dewalt battery adapter![]() Note that the gerbers included with this project plot the bottom copper layer. They can be used to attach extra wires or components, if desired. The middle two barrier block terminals are not connected to anything. The PCB can be screwed into the adapter body or glued, making sure that the PCB sits flush or just under the inside surface of the adapter body. ![]() The middle terminals on the PCB should be cut down to half-height as shown using a dremel or file. Trace isolation, holes, and board cutout are all done with the same 0.025" regular length end mill. The circuit board was milled on a Nomad 883 Pro CNC. The adapter body was printed in PLA with a 0.3mm layer height. If the C1 and C3 terminals are connected without the switch depressed, two cells are shorted together which instantly bricks the battery (won't charge or run tools.) These are normally used for cell balancing during charging, but with the switch depressed, they can be connected together to produce 60v at the B+/- terminals. If your going to do this and don't want to deal with all I did at least follow what others have posted and put a voltage cut off device in place and set it a little above 15v, you can find tons of them listed on Amazon.The Flexvolt battery incorporates a switch in the body of the battery which, in part, controls if the battery is wired up in series (60v) or parallel (20v.) The other piece of the puzzle is the connection between the C1 and C3 terminals. I also have a 12v out on this with a standard car cigarette plug so I can use it with car adapters as well and again I don't have to worry about killing my battery. My solution is overkill and cost me about $60 to build and about 6 hours of my time between assembly, writing the app, debugging and then testing the solution but it works perfectly and my expensive DeWalt batteries are safe. Would just having a 15v cut off likely do the job? Yeah honestly it would probably be fine on a genuine DeWalt battery but if your using an aftermarket battery with questionable cells this is a good way to ensure you don't have a problem. This is what you should be doing if your not putting this battery in a stock DeWalt tool or a charger to ensure you don't kill the battery. If it's the same battery it will trip immediately but if you put in a fresh one your good to go. Unplugging the battery and plugging it back in will reset the relay and the aurdino will automatically start the program again. I then wrote a little program that checks those values and if any cell falls below 3.1v the program opens a relay which opens the B+ line killing the output power from the battery as well as power to my aurdino. The Arduino has analog inputs and to those inputs I attached the C1 through C4 wires to read the voltage from the cell packs. Within the housing I mounted a voltage regulator to take the incoming power from B- and B+ and convert it to 5v for an Arduino I also placed inside. I bought a knock off DeWalt charger off Amazon but only for it's battery interface and nothing inside of it as it provided a secure means to hold the battery and a container to store the electronics I placed inside. What I did was build my own solution and it's really what sellers of these kits should be doing but it probably wouldn't sell well because it's expensive. To do this right you can't just assume 15v is the cutoff, you should be measuring the C terminal line like the actual tool does to ensure you have healthy cells and should use the pack. If your charger is blinking red indicating a bad battery odds are good when you probe C1 through C4 you find a pin that adds nothing to the total aka a dead cell within the battery. These pins are here so the charger/tool can see if a bank of batteries is bad and to ensure the batteries are load balanced. If you look closely at the battery pack or the charger you will see C1 though C4 and a stack of pins.Ĭ1-C4 reads the individual voltages of the battery packs inside the main battery and are in series to the B+ terminal so if you probe C1 you should be around 4v, probe C2 8v.add 4v until you get to B+ which should be showing 20ish ![]() If you probe the battery pack when a single LED is on you will see it's right around 15.3v If DeWalt batteries had built in low voltage protection this would not be a big deal but they put that part in their tools so you have to account for low voltage states.Īs the most recent replier correctly stated the cut off voltage for these packs is 15.0v I know this was posted a while ago but for those who may encounter this I have some tips since I just did this exact same thing and destroyed a battery running it too low with those simple slide on adapters. ![]()
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